DHS G888

I used to play this RED, MAX sponge on a DHS Wind Series (5Ply) on backhand. It was very spinny and speedy on that 5Ply blade. It was easy to play against very tough opponents with very expensive setups.

This rubber has very good blocks and is very good at topspins. However, it is sensitive to spin, so it is good for mid-distance play. It is suitable for the POLYBALL era.

I’ve bought this rubber because I was looking for a very tacky one, unfortunately, mine was not tacky at all after a few hours of playing… I mean it was tacky only right after removing the protection film, then the tackiness disappeared completely.

It’s a hard rubber, dull at first but after about 20 hours of playing, it has become much better, it offers a lot of control and great spin; it is quite slow though. I use it on my forehand and I find it easy to flick and loop, however, you have to use your hips and torso in your medium to far shots or the ball will land on the net.

I’m an intermediate player and I have to say that using this rubber has helped me developing my stroke, it makes me easy to recognize my mistakes since far from the table it is not forgiving at all.

I’m not sure if I would recommend this rubber because of the manufacturer inconsistency (many people say that this is one of the tackiest rubbers and mine was not at all), but for me, is overall a decent cheap rubber for beginners to intermediates.

Great rubber for Rpb learners but quite heavy. I based my search for better Rpb rubbers on this. It has great spin and control, even close to the table. Mid-distance speed is good enough with even better control. It’s better to use on a carbon blade. I used this on DHS4006c. Rpb loop is good, blocking is good, and everything feels natural for Rpb racket angle.

I have boosted the rubber with oil, and it became very fast and controllable on Primorac Carbon. It plays creates very spinny shots, and you can kill any ball higher then the net. After boosting, it works almost like an ESN rubber with good catapult effect and good acceleration on topspins, but it’s not so bouncy like ESN rubbers.

Note that this review is for boosted rubber with paraffin oil.

Je suis très étonné de voir la vitesse de ce DHS G888 évaluée à 8/10. C’est une plaque très ferme et inerte qui demande de l’engagement pour aller vite. Il n’y a aucun catapultage et par conséquent elle est très sécurisante avec une réponse très linéaire.

Petit coup, balle molle, grande frappe, balle toujours contrôlable. Sa mousse dure fait que je ne conseille pas le G888 en revers si on aime toper. Le topsheet collant est lui superbe pour imprimer de grosses rotations.

En conclusion, une belle plaque chinoise pour du petit jeu et de l’attaque contrôlée, mais aucunement une plaque rapide. Même le Marder de Spinlord, qui est l’un des backsides européens les plus lents, est plus rapide que le G888.

This is good rubber.

I find choosing a rubber a more personal decision than choosing a blade. However, you cannot ignore the characteristics of your blade when making this decision.

After trying various setups on my Stiga Legend, including Hurricane III, various Friendships rubbers, and others, I decided on G888 for both sides. I use black 2.2 on my forehand and red 1.8 on my backhand.

The black G888 has a durable tackiness that suits my style well, unlike the Hurricane rubber, which loses its tackiness quickly. It offers a good dwell time for a medium-hard rubber. Its weight is also very good, as it is lighter than the Hurricane rubber.

The medium-hard sponge allows for a range of shots, from short, slow, spinny shots to long, fast, and curvy balls. It provides excellent control, and with a proper technique, you can generate both spin and speed.

When paired with a flexible blade like the Stiga Legend, this setup is suitable for an experienced player. Keep in mind that soft sponges are more effective on stiffer, carbon blades, while hard sponges are more suited to flexible blades.

If you play Hurricane (a super-hard sponge) on a stiff blade, you will need to generate significant power on your own, which is not ideal. Similarly, with the G888, its long dwell time and hard sponge are more appropriate for flexible blades. Stiffer blades are better suited to European rubbers.

Additionally, you should consider the size of your movements. If you have a short, lazy stroke, you may prefer a European setup. However, if your movements are ample, you can manage a Chinese hard rubber setup.

Sólo para iniciados!!

More spin than PF4 40+. It is superior, faster, easier to handle, and has more touch compared to PF4 40+.

This is a typical example of hard tacky Chinese rubber. The topsheet is hard, and the sponge is medium hard to hard, depending on the version.

The tackiness generates a lot of spin, which is excellent for services and touch shots. The hard topsheet and sponge create speed and topspin when looping. It’s great for attacking and looping from ALL distances.

However, the rubber has a low throw angle, which is intentional. This linear shot style makes your smashes and loops harder to return. But it also means that small mistakes result in balls landing on the net or flying OFF the table.

This rubber is not for beginners and shouldn’t be used on super fast blades without mastering it first. I recommend pairing it with ALL or OFF- blades. I rate it 8.5 out of 10 because of its high learning curve and unforgiving nature.

Super tacky, this rubber appears very shiny and sticky out of the box, enabling good spin. However, it might be the combination with my sponge, but it feels a little soft and sub-optimal for slams.

Nice!
BEST FOR PRACTICE…>:D#.

Good for blocking and serving. Excellent for every type of spin. However, it’s too hard. Overall, it is very good for the price.

The sponge is hard, but not as dead as the sponge found on 729FX rubbers. It provides great control and allows for consistent shot-making with excellent precision.
The rubber is tacky and extremely spinny, making it an excellent choice for controlled allround+ play.

Red Rubber Review:

• Weighty rubber, unsuitable for pen-hold players.
• Excelled in rallies with exceptional spin.
• Effective for occasional chops.
• Inconsistent blocking performance.
• Low throw angle, requiring a near-horizontal angle for chopping.
• Responsive to incoming spin, demanding control.
• Ideal for rally and topspin-oriented players.

Final Update:

Due to the excessive weight and incompatibility with my playing style, I have decided to discontinue using the Elephant rubber.

Great spin, typically found in Chinese rubber with a hard sponge.

However, it’s very heavy and has a low throw, causing the ball to often fly into the net and making it not very controllable.

Despite not being faster than the 729 Super FX, it becomes fast when hard-hitting.

Overall, it’s a great rubber with the right technique.

Used on Blue Thunder 555.

On a Galaxy T8 with 729-8-ES on the other side. Used against my robot for about 3 hours.

Very, very tacky. High throw, medium speed, lots of spin. Spinnier, slower, and less control (because of the tackiness) than the 729.

Will try this combination at competition this week, with the G888 on my backhand.

I used this on a penhold blade. It is a delight for the forehand. Harder, like most Chinese rubbers; however, very easy to loop with. Very spinny, part of the new generation of Chinese rubbers meant for an aggressive game that came out circa 2000.

I have this rubber in 2.2, 2.0, and 1.8 on three different blades with long pips on the backhand (BH). All my blades are rated as Def+, but they are fast enough to be rated All/All+. The 2.2mm rubber is on a Milky Way LQ-2, while the other two rubbers are on a TSP Reflex Award 50.

I can vary the height and distance of my loops with fairly good ball placement, which causes issues for my opponents if they let the ball bounce high off the table. The rubber is very spiny, which is great for side spin and good for forehand (FH) serves as well. I play with DHS 1.0mm Long Pimples Cloud & Fog 3 on the BH, which is a very good combination.

To get the best out of this rubber, you will need a flexible blade. My two TSP blades are flexible, but my LQ-2 is hard, which means there is less dwell time. However, I can still get good ball rotation with the LQ-2. This rubber is very good for loopers who play close to mid-distance from the table, approximately up to 8 feet away.

Great spin on loops, flicks, and serves. The tackiness will last for a long time if you take proper care of it.

Also very effective to push, block, and drive with.

Excellent rubber for the price.

Very tacky rubber. It makes the ball run slowly because of the tackiness. After around 1 month of use, the ball can run normally (as the tackiness is slightly reduced). It is a spinny rubber with good control. I suggest using an off++ blade if you want to use this rubber to make the speed fast enough.

I had this rubber on my very first racket (DHS 4002 premade). It performs very well at counterlooping, driving, pushing, and blocking. In my opinion, because of the tackiness, it gives me plenty of control and direct incoming serves anywhere.

Currently, it is on a 7-ply and the tack and sponge have been broken in. It is a beast. It excels at everything with the right type of blade. It is worth the $$.

This rubber, in its prime, is the stickiest rubber known to man! It was my first rubber, given to me by my coach. It took time to get used to, but once it softens up, its speed and spin unleash. Almost all styles of play can utilize this rubber.

However, its best function is counter-looping. Someone could give you a fierce loop, and all you have to do is let it drop a bit and loop it back. You can get its best performance on an all-round type of bat.

Very tacky rubber, good for looping. I love the speed and spin.

Good for guys like me who run very fast with the bat.

Very tacky. Ideal for players who thrive on performing tacky loops.

DHS G888 2.0mm HARD

This rubber is a good choice for beginners. However, you may find that you become stuck after playing with it for a while. After 9 months of playing, I tried boosting it with 2 layers of mineral oil. I think it needed more layers because it didn’t help much, honestly. The topsheet is not as dead as it used to be, and the spin is still there. However, it’s still slow. Unboosted, it was rather inconsistent, either because of my poor technique or because the bat was damaged (a reused Atemi 5000 balsa carbon blade).

THIS RUBBER IS MEANT ONLY FOR FOREHAND.